Chorley British Sub-Aqua Club
5.5M RIB with 75 hp engine, fully
equipped with GMDSS radio, GPS and depth sounder, and safety kit.
Can comfortably take 4-6 divers.
Owned by one of our members and
on loan to the club.
The club also has several sets of donated equipment that can be
used by members during initial training.
Looking After Your Gear
Good care and maintenance of your diving equipment can result in many
years of trouble free service. More importantly, it can ensure your personal
safety. You will have invested lots of money in expensive dive gear
therefore it makes sense to maintain it properly which will give you more personal enjoyment
underwater as well as extending it's life.
Fresh water rinse after diving. Warm water is better but any
clean fresh water is fine. Remember that while the regulator is
designed to function underwater it is not designed to be filled with
water. The number one rule is to make sure the dust cap is securely in place on the first stage
and that you never depress the purge button while washing your
regulator. Pushing the purge button on a second stage while washing the
regulator will allow water to flow into the hoses and the part of the
first stage that is supposed to remain dry. Be sure to blow out any
water in the dust cap before securing it over the inlet port. Ensure
that the O-ring is in place inside the dust cap.
Wash regulators thoroughly as it is important to remove all salt from
inside. Remember, when salt-water dries the remaining salt crystals can be
After each day of diving, the regulator must be cleaned, inspected
and prepared for the next use or for storage. As soon as the first stage is
removed from the SCUBA cylinder, reinstall the dust cap over the regulator
inlet port. This cap is normally attached to the regulator yoke and
therefore has been under water.
Avoid ’soaking’ your regulator unless it is hooked up to a Scuba tank and
it has pressure on the system. Do not depress the purge buttons on either
second stage regulator while they’re in the water, without pressure, as this
will allow water to flow into the first stage regulator. Doing so is likely to result in water entering both regulator stages,
which could result in internal corrosion. Shake dry and wipe the regulator's
exterior with a clean cloth. It is highly recommend that after washing the
regulator you attach it to a scuba tank and THEN purge the second stages to
dry the valve mechanisms and second stage internal housings. Store the regulator in a cool, dry place
ensuring there are no kinks in the hoses.
Stab jackets are rarely dry; with warmth they soon collect organic
matter, which is ideal for bacterial growth. This can cause problems such as
chest infections, if you breathe from your jacket in an emergency or in a
drill. After every trip wash out the stab jacket with clean water and a
diluted disinfectant. If you have a BCD wash solution (available in most
dive stores) add the recommended amount before adding the water or use the solution recommended by your stab jacket
In a salt water environment, it is also extremely important to flush all
the salt out of the jacket before it dries and forms salt crystals. These
can cut the bladder, diminishing its ability to provide buoyancy. The more
that accumulates inside the bladder the worse things will get. Depress
the oral inflator button and allow warm water to flow into the jacket until
it is about 20% full. Make sure that the entire bladder is fully rinsed by
rotating and tilting the jacket is varying directions. Open the valve and
allow the water to flow out.
Rinse the exterior thoroughly in warm water, paying particular attention
to push button valves and the oral inflator, and make certain they are
After you've drained as much of the
water as possible inflate the BCD at least halfway and hang on a BCD hanger
to dry out of the sun. Tank air, being 99.9% humidity free, will
help dry the bladder inside and prevent mold formation.
Even though they are made of treated steel or aluminium
and then painted, you should still take a
minute or two to rinse the tanks with some fresh water.
Salt and sand can build up in the valve
knob and orifice, o-rings can degrade and crack. Dirt and grime
can collect under the black plastic boots
can damage tank surfaces and lead to corrosion.
rinsing everything else it just makes sense to spray the tanks down too.
and valve damage
Proper handling of a scuba cylinder is important for the longevity of
the cylinder itself and for the safety of the diver. Avoiding scratches,
dents, or sudden impacts to the cylinder is necessary to ensure a long
service life. External damage can weaken the cylinder, unseat the valve
or cause the cylinder to not properly connect with other equipment,
namely the first-stage of the regulator harness.
Be sure not to drop your cylinder particularly on the valves. Lie
cylinders down whenever unattended and make sure they can't roll. If
possible fit plastic carry handles around cylinder neck.
Cylinders should only be kept
upright if they are secured, such as on a dive boat or a dock equipped with
cylinder restraints. Whilst resting the tank on its side is best, it is
important to make sure the valve area does not get contaminated with dirt or
Prior to assembling the 1st stage
to the cylinder, always check the O ring is clean and undamaged.
Mask Fins Snorkel
Ensure your mask is kept out of strong
sunlight. It should ideally be soaked (not just rinsed) at the end of
the dive trip and fully dried in the shade. Store it in the plastic
storage box provided by the manufacturer to avoid damage to the face plate
or the lens. Check your mask strap and mask skirt for cuts, tears or cracks,
especially around the buckle areas.
Fins need only to be rinsed in clean, freshwater and dried in the shade. The best way
to store fins is to lie them flat so that the blade is not bent or curled.
Plastic stiffeners placed in the foot pocket can help keep the pocket from
collapsing when stored or transported.
The snorkel should be simply rinsed out and checked for any damage.
Latex seals can perish easily. The main reasons for this are skin oils,
perfume in talcum powder, exposure to sun and failing to wash them after usage
in the sea and therefore leaving them salty during
Wash thoroughly inside and out with mild detergent. Rinse with plenty
clean water. Dry carefully then treat surfaces with a special
silicone treatment or at least with a perfume free talc
to reduce seal welding.
If you are going to dry your suit on hangers, it is important
that you use an extra wide hanger. If narrow or wood hangers are used, the
suit is likely to be damaged due to excessive pressure. After the suit has dried,
the zipper should be left open and lubricated with bees wax or silicone lubricant
(non-petroleum based) to make them easier to open and close next time.
Your gear will obviously be wet in the boot of your car for the drive home.
As soon as possible, hang it up to dry and pack it away dry and clean.
Remember that sunshine isn't good for dive gear. Leaving it laying around in
the bright and hot sunshine for long periods of time is bad and can lead to
rotting, cracking, and fading of various parts of your kit.
Neoprene rubber is
especially affected by ultraviolet light and wetsuits, boots, hoods, gloves etc should
not be left out in the sun any longer than is necessary. It is better to roll
your neoprene suits once they are dry, folding them for prolonged periods
can cause any folds to become permanent. Either hang them or store in the
bag that they came with.
BCD bladders, Low-Pressure Inflator Hoses, and Regulator components can
also be affected by prolonged exposure to sunlight.
If you're not planning on diving for a while or packing your dive gear away for the season making sure things are dry
is critical, not only for the gear, but for your health as well! Consider
using desiccant pouches which will absorb any lingering moisture. Cylinders
are best stored with some pressure inside to prevent moisture buildup.